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[ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4752: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - Bmw/Volvo fronts and r31 skyline rears.. how good ?
Damion the brakes you have should work well. The only way you could improve on the front is an alloy calliper but pad and piston size is good. Pads make a huge differance and every one has a preferd brand. I have had good sucsess with Ferodo DS2500. the limiting factor of the rear is the slide set up as this requires constant maintenace to keep it working well but shoud be a good match to the fronts. A pedal box is a good way to good and consider the brake fluid you use this can have a big effect on the overall performance.
Damion, talk to Danny as he had a pedal box built for my car and it's great, and i'm running the same brake setup but with differant pads in the front, i got them from Danny, and i think Gary runs the same pads, I think they are a comp friction pad??? Danny can you remember?
For the price (less than 500 dollars plus pads) I have not been able to find anything as successfull as the volvo/bmw combination on my Mk1. I use Ferodo DS3000 on the track up front which halved the braking distance over budget standard volvo pads (so pads make a massive difference). I have solid disks and 200sx single piston slider calipers on the rear and 2 .625 master cylinders. The Pedal box is adjustable bias and a modified original Mk1 unit with the rear of the pedals plated to add to their rigidity. It is a very hard pedal but works very well for what I want. I find them very easy to modulate under very heavy late braking. Maybe a bit heavy for the road.
Here in the UK, the wilwood kits sell very well as they are affordable and must work better than standard. A few race guys swear by them?
From what I have been reading it is common to use a larger bore master for the rear circuit ie 0.700" front and 0.75" rear... although if i have a larger bore m/c for the rear circuit in relation to the front circuit this will mean that i am exerting less pressure on the rear circuit than the front, correct ? and if my current rear brakes are not locking up i guess this scenario will only make things worse.. as my master is 19.05mm for both circuits.
Maybe I will try putting some decent pads the whole way round first up and see how I go from there.. Where is a good place to purchase Ferodo pads from ? My local guy wouldn't even look them up for me.. he reckons that lucas pads are the be all and end all... hah.
Neil S: What do you recommend as a good brake fluid ? and what differentiates a good brake fluid from an average one ?
Belly: You don't know what Master cylinder sizes you are using do you ?
JP: have you had to adjust your brake bias from neutral to prevent from rear lock up at all ?
What size bore are the volvo callipers? I kept the standard pedal length and run have a 16mm (.6) cylinder for the front. Piston bores are 42mm. Pedal feel is excellent and the travel is not long.
I am not too sure of the bore size of the volvo calipers.
As far as i understand you don't really need to change the pedal ratio as long as you have the right master cylinders.. as if you go to a higher pedal ratio you are only going to go to a larger master cylinder ?
There is a rule for alternate master cylinders in Qld road registered cars, the master cylinder has to travel full stroke, so not a lot of scope for gaining more pedal leverage once full pedal travel = full master travel.
Only leaves hydraulic ratio, larger effective rotor radius or pad mu to get less pedal effort.