The Rebuild Begins

[Lightning_Boy]

Don't Burton's sell Mahle pistons in single units?

Hopefully this link works:

http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-bra ... l_engine=9

[SportsSedanSteve]

I think that block and crank would have too many doubts to be useful in motorsport. If you have a spare block and crank I would be getting Miltons to prep that up than throw more money at this one. I just think that when your going 7000rpm flat in 4/5th gear out you need to have confidence in what you've built and I dont think a sleeved, undersized block/crank is very confidence inspiring.

Have you costed main caps and line boring for your spare block?

Ps I'm sure your aware my block is sleeved as well, the crank is standard though

[MK1_Oz]

[mickas]

Bang a Duratec in it...

[MK1_Oz]

Oh dear. It appears the only standard bore of 5 thou oversize forged pistons that are available (to keep under 2000cc) are Wossners from germany at a landed cost of $1200!!! I cannot wait for custom jobbies to be made. Not happy. Anybody got a set of something in the shed?

I believe the standard first oversize is 20 thou which would make the engine 2016cc.

One of the old Mahles has worn the skirt causes clearences out of tolerance.

[gen mk 1rs2000]

what about big pistons but "de stroke" it slightly?? to keep under 2L , just ask dany??

[MK1_Oz]

I did ask the engine builders about offset grinding but as I wrote earlier he thought it would mess up too much other stuff so it went in the too hard basket. I cannot afford an off the shelf alternate stroke crank (if such a beast exists - assume it does).

I will make official enquiries with the targa people regarding how much allowance they will permit for oversizing of engines. From what I have read it runs in whatever class that corresponds to the actual size although I also recall there are manufacturing tolerances of +/- a tiny bit.

[PaulMK1]

Give Rolly a call (08) 9371 3333

He built it in the first place and should may have some pistons on the shelf.

[SFE]

Why do people never mention SPS, Special Piston Services here in Australia when talking about custom pistons? They use reputable forgings from cosworth and other suppliers, and were good enough for many of the gpA sierra engine builders of the day among many others still. Things may not be 'off the shelf' but in my experience quick turn around for customised specifications like deck height, valve cutout depth, ring type, pin requirement etc etc.

rgds,
SFE

[MK1_Oz]

[Lightning_Boy]

[MK1_Oz]

[MK1_Oz]

Just stopped into the engine builders to get an update on progress. Sam is having a world of difficulty in finding forged pistons that suit the Cossie rods in either a standard bore or 5 thou oversize (so that I can finally get a sub-2000cc engine). He has however found a set of 40 thou over Mahles the same as I currently have so worst case scenario it will be rebuilt as a 2046cc engine gr gr gr

The Wossners out of Germany turned out to be for a higher compression so are no good.

Anybody hiding a set in their shed???????

Clock is ticking towards Targa Adelaide!!!!!!

[juzzy]

mk1 oz I have a brand new set of accralite forged 90.93mm pinto pistons burton p/n ft132/91 they use a floating pin with circlips. if u look at the accralite website they list both cosworth and pinto piston pins at 24mm,if your spare block is standard height than machine 1mm off should get piston flush with top of block or machine less if u want positive deck ht.

[MK1_Oz]

[juzzy]

$600 for pistons,rings,pins,circlips plus aprox $30 insured standard delivery. i paid $800 + del from uk.

[MK1_Oz]

OK time for an update.

Miltons have been unsuccessful in finding stocked pistons in a standard bore to fit cossie rods. He saw the Accralites but was not keen on them due to weight (I have not looked up weight differences myself). Obviously custom pistons could be made but we don't have the time and I don't particularly want to have to pay the premium for them.

The engine is to retain 92mm Mahle pistons (2046cc) but of a slightly different design. These have a larger gudgeon pin than the last ones. It appears that the small ends of the cossie rods had been modified to accept a smaller pin. The stuffed cylinder will be sleeved and the others deglazed and honed. I know others do not like this idea but it will get me through and Miltons assure me this is not ground breaking stuff and that it will be 100% fine. I will get them to cc the thing and calculate my compression ratio as I am only working off third hand info at the moment.

Seeing as my thread title is about rebuilding I thought I would mention some issues I have had with the type 9 HD SC Quaiffe gearbox. When I pulled it out the bellhousing was covered in oil. Sadly it was not engine oil from the facebook leaky motor but trans oil (that precious $1,000,000/litre Redline Shockproof Lite ). My initial fear was that the seal on the input shaft was shafted and a 2mm wobble in that input shaft almost confirmed that until the supplier told me that type 9's always have a little wobble at the tip of the input shaft and that all was well. The leak has come from two areas (that are related). Firstly, some numbnuts (me) neglected to put a gasket between the bellhousing and the main case. Secondly, during the initial clutch installation the bulge on the inside of the bellhousing that accepts the selector rod as it slides forwards for 2nd and 4th gears was in the way so I cut off the excess and welded a plate over the end. It appears my welding wasn't brilliant as the plate leaked allowing trans oil to ener directly into the bellhousing. One ruined Extreme clutch!

I have 2 choices to fix this. Either re-weld or use some silicon sealant (threebond?) to plug the holes in my welding. Not sure which to do but am leaning towards the sealant as I can see more welding going pear-shaped and also it is such a tight area to try to weld anyway. This oil isn't under pressure so sealant should do it providing it is oil resistant. Thoughts?

Bellhousing1.jpg (72.84 KiB) Viewed 15880 times

Now the supplier has confused me on something. They are saying that I should have a gasket between my concentric slave cylinder spacer and the main case to prevent any oil that comes out of the input shaft seal from getting into the bellhousing. Given that the slave cylinder is a tube (so that the input shaft can poke out) I cannot see what bit of difference a gasket will make. Pic below show my set up.

Slave1.jpg (91.44 KiB) Viewed 15880 times

Slave2.jpg (94.11 KiB) Viewed 15880 times

Slave3.jpg (84.8 KiB) Viewed 15880 times

I just hope the box is ok having run low on oil! It was starting to get a little hard to select 5th towards the end of the event.

I have had the clutch pressure plate reground and a new friction plate. The blokes showed me some wear on the clutch fingers saying that the release bearing was pushed against it too much. The release bearing is new and still works fine so I am thinking we got our calculations of the slave spacer wrong and made it too thick. However, when you take your foot off the clutch pedal wouldn't the fingers push the release bearing/slave piston back but they would always be in contact anyway? I guess my situation must be that the slave piston is pushed all the way back in but is still exerting pressure on the fingers. Will remeasure and probably have to mill a couple of mm off the spacer.

[jsa]

Welding oil alloy is a lost cause.

Option 3, remove weld, drill hole, tap thread, fit threaded blank with appropriate depth hole, peen to prevent escape.

Use locktite 518 or your favourite goo on the thread before screwing in.

[MK1_Oz]

Will look into that idea. Cannot recall the wall thickness but should be enough I expect.

[Danny M]

Do yourself a favour and piss the hydraulics off and put a cable back in it
How much of that knob for the selector shaft did you cut off