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[ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4752: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - The Rebuild Begins
Fuel usage on my Group C car works out to be about 1L for every 3km raced, which would make it about 33L/100km. That's with 48's, either 4.1 or 4.4 gearing and 8000rpm gear changes.
John you're a nutter! You need to use a decent clutch and not those dodgy converted Holden one tonner jobbies as you then work out that a standard cable is fine as I've never had one break yet
My 2 cents on the clutch debate for anyone reading this thread and trying to decide.
I have a properly matched AP clutch, that is one with a diaphram that realistically matches the engine output, not some huge HP capable clutch that most people seem to think their cars need these days. And I can operate my clutch pedal EASILY with one hand, its a very light action. I have also worked out all travels and dimentions of the clutch and cable propely and fitted stops on the pedal to make sure it's not overextended or stressed. Ive had a number of cars (of various clutch style) with cables before and have had cables break before.
But I agree with Danny, with the right clutch and a PROPERLY setup cable I really find it hard to believe there is enough stress on the cable to cause any failure that you wouldn't see coming with regular inspection.
Thank you. Might flush in place then rather than pull them all out as to undo the rear bulkhead lines I have to remove the tank which means removing the pumps and filler etc etc. PITA
Just made a pulley to fit into the cordless drill for priming the oil pump. Never been able to get enough pressure pulling it by hand. Used an old Pinto cam pulley and timing belt, some metal dowel and the end off an old auxillary shaft. Looks ugly but works.
Yeah just flush them in place as I just use a length of hose connected up so I'm not pouring in the boot With the pump I use a longish narrow belt and hold it at the top with a socket bar and just pull the belt and it doesn't take long at all and it makes 70psi of pressure
OK, still having issues with my engine build (this is why I cannot do it myself!!!!). The new pistons appear to have a slightly bigger piston height so stick out of the block a little more than the last pistons. This will increase the CR way too much. The option is to use my spare block and mill that down as required to get a nice CR.
My rather urgent question is, is there any reason why a Sierra injection head cannot go onto an older Pinto block??? I have it in my head that there were differences with the coolant holes in that one head had them in a straight line but the other had them curved around the combustion cylinders a little - this may be a difference between 1600 and 2000 heads??????
Before we start work on the spare block can somebody advise please? Cheers
lol. I will get the exact part code from Miltons this time so that if I ever need another set I will not have these issues. Using the spare block will be better anyway (providing the injection head is OK to fit on it) as it saves rebuild money and also avoids the sleeving. It is also a few previous Kg lighter than a 205 block
Just back from engine builders. Using a standard replacement block that I gave him. It appears the piston clearances were too large also using the new pistons in the 3 good old block bores.
It also apprears that the CR of the old motor was 12+ and I was running on 98 octane!!!! I had been warned that it knocked on 98 but the quoted CR figure of 10.8 said otherwise. Think I was quite lucky not to kill more bits!!! It will now be built to 11.5:1 for use on JPF100 fuel.
My experience tells me don't rush it! Something always seems to end up goinging wrong. Get it 110% and enjoy many trouble free events, instead of half a disappointing one.