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headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - Mk1 Escort Tarmac Rally Car
The body roll seemed a littel excessive to me. I have 275lb springs on the front and 180lb on the rear which I thought would be about right for semi-rough country roads. Thoughts? I had the bump and rebound settings on the 3rd click from softest (15 clicks total I think) which is soft. Can/should I use the bump and rebound to prevent body roll or is that the job of the springs and ARB? (24mm front ARB and none on the rear).
just my thoughts on starting point setup for a mk1 aprx 180 +hp is 275 to 300 lb front springs 205 to 225 tyres 145 to 165 lb rear springs with medium to hard rear sway bar with at least 225 / 50 rear tyres along with bilsteins & or koni,s the next best step would be proflex or murry the coote shocks just think about what kind of tyre you use ie, road , rally ,semi slick or full slick ?? these all have a big impact on spring choice along with tyre pressures etc etc
i am going thru a setup with a 200+ hp yb rally car mk2 it feels too soft in the rear & bottoms out in the rough BUT you need it fairly soft in the rear to get the power down otherwise it spends its life wheelspining too much !!!!
My maths works out at 39.28% logic... crank does 100 rpm, so jackshaft does 50, of that 50 the belt "see's" 50*22 teeth, so 1100 teeth. 1100 teeth makes the pump turn 1100/28=39.285blar blar blar..... turns
giving a ratio of 39.3%. your maths is the sweet, nice way of doing it, but I am just trying to take it step by step because you asked.
At 7500 was seeing 75 psi or maybe a little more (hot). I did not notice scavenging issues although not sure specifically what those issues would show as.
I was chatting to dean tighe at Targa and he was telling me about the V8 stoopid cars putting the dry sump tank in the front as it extended engine life. Your tank still in the boot Danny? I did notice it was a little hard to initially prime my pump even though the pump is lower than the tank oil level. Not sure if worth making tank mods similar to don Todd's perana?
The V8's did have their tanks up front in the bellhousings early on but then they all went to the back If you've got 75 psi whats the problem As far as priming it's quite easy, undo the -16AN inlet in to the pump and wait till you get a stream of oil coming out then take the belt of the pump and I use a long narrow belt and by hand I pull the belt turning the pump until has 30-40psi which is quite easy to do. I then fit the belt back on and with the the plugs out hit the starter and the pressure comes up instantly and hey presto we're off
All else being fixed, pressure should be directly related to flow (???) therefore I think (???) if I see 75psi then the flow should be fine. It's just a niggling concern in the back of my mind.
Supply -16 Pump to motor -10 Returns -12
Dean was trying to convince me to put the tank in passenger well like the Perana (looks quite neat!) but sounds like it just isn't worth bothering with.
I am pretty sure my motor died by sucking air into the inlet side of the pump via the loose inlet hose rather than through any continual oil starvation. Obviously I dont want to make it three bottom end rebuilds after 2 events!!!!