RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

Hi Guys,

I have been in contact with Dave Carpenter in the USA who races Pro 4 Series speedway car powered by a 2.0 Pinto making around 230 odd hp. (http://www.secordmotorsports.com/) to pick his brain on a few things and he sent me a few pics on this exhaust system he is playing around with.

To Quote Dave "Matt..... the pic's are a header system designed/run on a 2.0L Pinto road engine up here in the States. Note the last picture. An exhaust evacuation/booster device we designed in order to pull a vacuum inside a wet-sump engine. Installed inside the 3" header collector. We'll have some actual vacuum number's on the engine in about 1 month. Pass the pic's around down there..... if you like."

Any comments would be great. I have sent this thread link to Dave so I'm sure he'd be happy to answer any questions.

Here's a few pics.

Cheers,

Matt

Isn't that in David Vizards book??

Maybe, had a quick look but couldn't find it though.

I assume you'd need some sort of one way valve to stop back pressure from the exhaust pressurising the block.

Matt

Vizard's was different, angle cut pipe below collectors in a zero restriction system to provide crank case vaccum; this on seems to have a full Venturi design, will be interesting to see what inHg it can pull down.....

I have read a few of his other posts and the design has been based on the webber sidedraft aux-venturi.

From here - http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24874

Cheers

Matt

Can't be used in events in Australia or on a street car

Why's that?

Matt

Cause it will dump oil all over the road if the engine plays up

Steve there is more to Steve's issue than meets the eye lets just wait till the bottom end turns up

LOLOL

The guys in the states a sort of one way valve to stop this happening.

Matt

Right,

Matt

The complete exhaust/booster evacuation system used on the wet-sump 2.0L Pinto is as follows. The vent output at the block on the lower left side. Drill/tap/install a short section of pipe with (2) thin metal 45-degree oil baffles cut/welded into the pipe side. The baffles opposite each other. The stock baffle inside the block should also remain. Then a short section of hose off the pipe & into a 3"x4" 'oil separator' pipe mounted under the intake manifold. End plates welded on each end. The baffle-side input fitting placed low on the end plate or under the pipe. The output fitting placed high on the end plate. Internally, the separator filled with coarse/wooly steel wool for good oil separation. And the low input fitting will permit oil draindown back into the block lower case. The anti-backfire valve mounted at the high oil separator output fitting. Hose from the anti-valve to the booster evac in the header collector. The top of the engine vented off the valve cover to a 1-quart vent can, mounted even/higher with the valve cover, and a pod-filter atop the vent can. A good sized vacuum/boost gauge attached to the dip-stick tube. The vacuum value should be no more than 8"-10" at max operating engine rpm. If the vacuum is too high, a drilled 'pill' installed in the line between the collector and the anti-valve. Vacuum too low? A drilled 'pill' installed in the vent line between the valve cover & vent can. It can require a bit of time to discover the proper sized hole to use in the 'pill' for the amount of vacuum desired. -Dave-

Have been emailing Dave Capenter every now and then and they finished off the exhaust.

To quote Dave "The addition of the properly tuned exhaust pictured, and a re-jetting of the carb with the new exhaust, added 23HP to the engine". I beleive they were already getting 200+ hp so that is pretty impressive. 10%.

Cheers,

Matt

Couple of pics of the exhaust in a Mercury Capri. Very nice indeed.

Matt

One from outside