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already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - Tie Rod End Threads
I have my front end apart at the moment. When I last had the car wheel aligned they told me I could not get any more -ve camber as there was insufficient thread on the tie rod ends. Looking at them they had the TRE screwed all the way onto the steering arm.
How much of the threaded steering rod needs to be inside the TRE for strength and safety?
I have a pair of GRP4's extensions but they extend the TRE outwards by a MINIMUM of 60mm which would probably result in excessive camber!!
I'm running just less than 2 degrees negative camber. This leaves about 8mm of thread into the TRE, which once bound up with the lock nut seems ok.
Saying that Group4Fab do a rack that is 10mm wider each side which I am considering. I've also looked at drilling out the steering arms and fitting rose joints instead of the TRE. You can then play with the bump steer too. I'm sure there is a thread on here about it.
Just use a TE-TF Cortina tie rod which is longer Do no use a longer rack unless you are moving the pickup point in the cross member and even then be careful as it really screws you around with bump steer if you're not careful You really want to have at least the thickness of the thread as depth into the TRE Paul WTF are you doing with only 2 degrees of negative camber, are you going to drive it across the Nullabor?
2 degrees is all I can get with current strut tops without having the same issues Glenn has with the TRE. I also have the extenders but that then gives me a minimum of 3.2 degrees neg with 0 toe in.
If you need to fit extenders but these give too much negative camber, shorten the steering arms by say 1 cm and try again until you have the camber you want with as much thread as possible inside the TRE's.
When I added the extender I went from the arms being almost full wound out (8mm thread) to completely wound in (40mm+ tread). I have cut down the arms on an old rack to accommodate the change but didn't really want to cut the arms on the new rack.
Danny: With the Grp4 rack the arms are 11mm longer, the rack itself is the same width and the pivot points are the same so I can't see it impacting bump steer.
I run -4 to -4.5 on the track. The khumos i use apparently work best at -2 or thereabouts, with respect to the road. Add 2 degrees or more body roll and you'll need at least -4 static to make them work properly. That's why adding a couple of degrees negative to the rear wheels helps a load too.
The negative camber will increase until the control arm is level, then it will decrease past that. this is all of course in relation to the car, ignoring the amount of lean the car has in the corner. any lean the car gets in the corner adds positive camber.
My experience with Escorts over many years, you want to limit body roll, not by large swaybars but by heavy springs. Large swaybar will promote understeer. I run 275lb coil-overs in my 1600 Mk1 and have been toying with trying 300s. Standard twincam-width swaybar (20mm) with as much caster as i can wind in. 4 to 4.5 neg camber and 1mm toe-out which helps turn-in. Anti-dive helps a bit too.