RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

Guys,
Its a given any new wiring installation will be logical, neat and tidy.
Is there any advantage, disadvantage to re route wiring runs from non traditional locations.
I have a new universal wiring loom all color coded etc ready for fitting routing and terminating.
from experience would utilising under the front arches be wise. Would concealing it all like a show car be a dumb idea (assume easy access wherever it is routed) any better bulkhead penetration locations as they are all currently welded up.
I will be installing only the basics, lights front and rear, brake lights, fans, fuel pumps plus ECU. might not do indicators?. The battery will be in passenger seat location and switch panel (ignition button, fuses, kill switch volts meter etc will be a tower also in the passenger seat area accessible from drivers seat
I have a whole plethora of OEM type waterproof connectors to utilise.

Any thoughts or advice or ideas welcome. Looking for neat clean but serviceable and safe install done once!
Cheers

JP

Hi mate,

We put the battery slightly behind where the passenger seat is so as to allow a place for a passenger seat for passenger laps. Where the tunnel meets the floor on the passenger side and far side passenger floor (above the sill on the inside) are good places. Then along the top of the rails inside the engine bay are also good.

We don't use the inner guard as it gets destroyed by rubber, stones etc if you're using R spec tyres.

I'd forget about it being a show car, it's a race car so heat, power, development mods will mean as pretty as we'd like it, it's not concourse.

Cheers,

Mike.

Trailer wire is handy for keeping things neat. Narva 5 or 7 core is good, but don't get the small stuff.

I've run the wiring along the top of the tunnel. Brake and solid fuel lines down the side of the tunnel too. Battery is OK there with the passenger seat in as well.

IMG_9668.jpg (72.07 KiB) Viewed 9769 times

cheers guys.
Mike, Not after the show car look but there is some logic behind how they route the wiring which is what i was thinking. Factory wiring is about accessibility during manufacture and order of installation.
I agree its not about pretty but practical and secure.
How do you guys pass through bulkheads? I have bulkhead fittings for the fuel already


JP

I just took the standard wiring grommet/plug, cut out the centre and passed the wiring through it then sealed up with a lick of sillycan (I was on a huge deadline at the time though). I couldnt think of a reason why I would ever need to remove the front loom and also decided that one less set of connections to cause issues was a good thing. I hind sight a quality aircraft type fitting may have assisted with trouble shooting.

For the bulkhead use a waterproof multi-pin bulkhead plug. I think mine has 26 pins by memory. That way you can have a separate 'engine bay' loom which is easily removed and worked on. Waterproof, reliable and the 2 halves positively lock together but not cheap! On my car everything electrical forward of the bulkhead goes through this one plug (power and various sensors) all except the distributor/ignition wiring which I've kept separate and of course the battery cable from starter to cabin located cut-off switch. Battery behind the passenger seat .

SFE

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/22-Cavity-We ... 35cb42059e

I used a pair of these off the back of my switch/fuse panel but they are designed as firewall plugs. I cannot recall the amp rating.

Just bought a pair OZ.
will do the low amp wiring stuff Fine.
have to find a high amp for starter and fuel pumps bulkhead fitting now
cheers mate.
JP