RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

Some horns are on an always positive feed, ie they will work without a key in the ignition. This one shows it going through a fuse block. All the other accessories would be powered through this fuse block also.

thanks for that!

I've just had a look at one of the diode relays and it shows the positive trigger wire going to the 86 terminal. It might pay to standardise on that right away because if you switch in a diode protected relay it will just blow up if the positive trigger is hooked to the wrong side. Don't ask me how I know that one

Diode relays probably aren't 100% necessary on older cars, they're designed to stop spikes going through the wiring and harming modern electrical circuits when the trigger power is shut off. Its supposedly nicer on the contacts as well somehow and I use them pretty much anywhere I can.

Good thinking 99.........

My biggest hassle I have had today is finding somewhere that sells hazard light switches so that I can get a pin configuration to enable me to work up the diagram for the indicators/hazards.

Only managed to find one in UK (vehicle wiring products).

Just go and get one out of a car at the wreckers. If you can find an F100 one I can help you with the wiring

Actually, it would be good to get one from an F100 as they are a standalone switch that you can mount in a hole. Most modern hazard switches seem to be a part of the indicator stalk or mounted on the steering column somewhere.

If you get the switch, make sure you get the plug as well (ie, cut the wiring loom). Hazard lights use the indicator relay/flasher so wiring is a bit tricky.

yeah I have resigned myself to spending time in the wreckers . I want a nice flat round one that lights up red!!!

mk1 oz & leon all that is crap
have a look at claytons resetable switch circuit breakers
aircraft quality

Steve,

that 'crap' is good enough for me ...
Where is the aircraft quality stamp on those switches?
And if it's all a super-duper-pro job why use all red wires?

About the hazard-switch: I suppose you have a similar switch to us over here. Have a look at the back of the original switch, the posts are numbered 1 to 7 .
On an original loom the indicators are fed by fuse 1 and fuse 6 (1 for hazard, 6 for indicator). If you plan to use just the 1 fuse (as myself with a FIA masterswitch) then you just have to use a twin pole switch which switches terminal '4' to '5' (poles 1) and terminal '4' to '6' (poles 2).

If you are using an original loom/fusebox then use a 3 pole switch-over switch which does the above plus switches terminal 2 to 1 (switch in off position) to terminal 2 to 3 (switch in on position).

If this this clear enough I will draw a schematic.

Grtz, Leon.