RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

How would these be for road-going pinto in MK1 escort.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-Twin-C ... 5aedb9075c

The more I read about K&N the more I'm put off.
I want to plumb the oil cap breather to base plate of filter assembly so the pod UNIFILTERS are out. Any more options in this price range? Pipercross a bit expensive. How are the paper element filters?

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/prod ... cts_id=688

I wouldn't touch foam filters with a barge pole. Had my old escort dynoed many years ago, trumpets only. Put on foam filters (properly cleaned and oiled) car wouldn't run. Removed them and replaced with paper elements, ran perfect until I got rid of the car.

I've had K&N on racecars and on my roadgoing Falcon and F100 for at least the past 15 years no problems. Clean them, re-oil and off you go again.

Hi Scott

The Ramair filters don't require oiling and yes I did read somewhere the oiled foam Unifilters restrict airflow substantially.

K&N have good flow rates but paper keeps more crap out

After a bit more research it looks like foam is out.

Some generic (Redline) K&N filters look well priced from USA

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281155910319 ... 1438.l2649

I'd go for oiled cotton gauze type (K&N preferably or copies of), wouldn't touch oiled foam of any brand and if you want to route the breather back into the air cleaner then paper filter element would be out too IMO.
SFE

Hi,

why would you plumb the oilcap breather to the air filter housing?
It will put a mist of oil inside the carbs.
Personally I would go for K&N filters; no need to oil them every race or so.
Once a year is more than enough. If you are racing in very dusty conditions (autograss) then I would suggest you never ever oil the filters, just clean them with a brush and compressed air every race. An oiled filter-element will just hold all the dust/sand.
I've seen several engines which had spit-back into the carbs setting the paper or foam filter on fire. This is more common with engines using a DIS ignition as there will be a spark when the inlet valve is open.

For my new engine I have bought this:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performan ... al-air-box
K&N quality plus it will keep both carb-bodies more aligned so they keep synchronosation better.

Regards, Leon.

Some foam filters are ok in low dust situations but they do not filter as well as the K&N's, but sometimes you don't have a choice. With my car I cannot get a K&N to fit against the inner guard and yes there is a bit of crap on the backs of the throttle blades but I don't have any choice. As far as power goes they made no difference compared to nothing at all but some like the Australian made Finer and Uni filters restrict a lot as my old pinto use to suck them into throats on the 48's
As far as pcv valves go I would not use them as yes you will get suction on a single carburettor but on a pair of webers or the like it will make stuff all difference and will only come into play when the crank case starts breathing positive pressure blowing oil in the intakes and no Scott the air doesn't enter the top breather.
With a wet sump engine the volume of air in the crankcase is only a tidal volume whilst the rings are seating proplerly

Was talking road car, not race.

Block, Oil cap and gearbox breather to catch can. The can is sealed with a vent pipe running down beside the radiator and out under the front apron. No problem with fumes at all.

Thanks Scott. Is the gearbox vent really necessary for road car? And did you remove PCV valve?

No, you wouldn't need to put the gearbox breather there for a road car, anyway its not so much a breather, rather an expansion port as there is no ventilation through the gearbox. I just used the housing of the pcv valve and removed the guts so that I could still hook up the hose to it. The pcv valve in its original form is to prevent a backfire in the factory manifold from pressurising/blowing into the sump.

Forget about the pcv altogether as if the engine rings are any good or if not you don't want oily fumes getting sucked back in
When was the X flow fuming up

The current Pinto is recently rebuilt & has very good compression

My old xflow had some miles on it. Got fumey when the car was stationary. Initially I had crank & oil cap vented to atmos through mini breathers




Then I connected PCV valve to manifold via a sealed catch can and left oil cap vented to atmos

Yellow is PCV circuit, Blue is brake vacuum line and red is inlet manifold




A bit embarrassing revisiting these pics and noticing all the dodgy work